Wednesday, October 10, 2012

50 Shades of Brown



Ciaran Carson steps into the room after stepping out to have a smoke. He is wearing his old glasses, and a suit just as old. Energetically talking the moment he enters, it is almost as if he has suddenly started speaking his thoughts, continuing a conversation he was having with himself outside in the autumn air. Everything he says is like this; when he speaks, he is really just thinking out loud. There is no filter, and sometimes no direction, yet you learn all the same.
It is he who brings our attention to his brown tweed suit, although I had noticed it already. Heavy and ugly, I cannot think where Ciaran buys his clothes, and I cannot imagine a day where the suit he is wearing would be fashionable. What interests me most about the suit, however, is how poorly it seems to fit him; when he sits, his trousers ride up a good three or four inches, revealing hideously ugly teal socks.
He takes his jacket off, because it is warm in the little room. Beneath the heavy jacket is a vest of the same material, and a blue tuxedo with red buttons by the wrists. On his elbows are those armbands I sometimes see in old movies, the ones reporters wore. He holds up the jacket for us and explains that the suit he is wearing originally belonged to a Colonel, and that there is a lapel inside of the suit that gives the date the suit was completed. He wonders aloud if it is the suit that makes the man and, if, in donning this suit, he has become the colonel.
The suit came to him through eBay, which supports him in his writing habit. When writing The Pen Friend he bought 254 fountain pens, and for his newest book, he bought vintage suits—
Ciaran has remembered the point in his memoirs, and rummages around in his brown leather satchel for a dozen or so cards. He passes them out, and I look carefully at mine. Join us to celebrate the launch of EXCHANGE PLACE, it reads. 
“Sorry about the late notice,” he says, “I ought to have given it to you last week.”
For weeks he has been talking about this novel, although he has never mentioned it by name. Instead he spoke of fairies, of fetch, your doppelganger. What would it mean to see another image of yourself walking through the streets of Belfast, like Mark Twain’s The Prince and the Pauper. Would it be frightening? Exhilarating? He claimed to be working on something with this very idea at the heart of it, and here it was, in my hand.
“There’ll be free wine,” he says, smiling, his eyes intent and large. If I did not know him, and understand what that look meant, it would have reminded me of a madman. As it is, he jumps up with his hat and pretends the Colonel has possessed him, and we laugh freely. Suddenly he remembers we had homework due, fairy tales, and he picks me to read mine aloud. As I do so, crawling along slowly, making sure I enunciate and speak loudly so the class can hear and understand me, I am rewarded with his muffled laugh.
“I want to let you know, Bekah,” he says, “that I laughed when I first read this. It’s filled with black humour,” which is one of the highest compliments an Irishman can give, that I looked at death and laughed to spite it. As the saying goes, if something tragic happens in Ireland, the very next day, there’ll be a joke about it.


Muriel’s CafĂ© Bar is by the Prince Albert Clocktower, the one that is rumoured to lean from the weight of too many prostitutes. It is a long walk, at least forty-five minutes, and I was not sure which of the small alleys and lanes it was down. I know more of how Belfast is laid out than I ever did of home, or even Livonia; but it is still a surprise to turn the corner and see it, full already of cheerful people, and my laughing professor.
I have brought along Hannah and Victoria, because I know that they will drink the wine I will not touch, and because I am afraid to go so far by myself. We step up to Muriel’s, and there sitting outside on the patio is Ciaran Carson, smoking and laughing. His hat is on the table before him, and he is leaning back in his chair the way a cat will arch its back in the sunlight. Suddenly I remember that today is his birthday; he is 64 years old.
We step inside. I have never been to a book launching, and am suddenly self-conscious and wary. I wanted to come, so much; but now I am here, I am at a loss. I look around, and try to grab my bearings. It is hard to concentrate in the dim light of pubs, and hard to get my grip on a small room teeming with people. But even in the yellow half-light, I can see quite plainly Muriel’s own special touch: hanging from the ceiling, as if on a clothesline, are strings of pants, all of them bearing the name of a brand of cider, or the name of the pub itself. 

Directly to my left are two women selling copies of Exchange Place, and then a staircase leading upstairs. In front of me are the tables, and then an almost museum-like wall, with white paper mache heads bearing hats tucked into the wall, and bolts of cloth. The effect makes Muriel’s seem older, and more like a museum. To my left is the bar itself, gleaming, with wine glasses hanging from the ceiling.
I buy a book, suddenly keenly aware of my American accent, and then lead Hannah and Victoria to the bar. It is red wine they are giving away tonight, and we watch the bartender deftly take the bottle and pour it into a thin tin tube, which measures out the wine, and then slips it into the wineglass. When our turn comes, the bottle has run dry, and so I watch his slim fingers deftly turn a corkscrew and pull the cork out of a new bottle. Out comes the little tin tube, and he pours three glasses, pulling them from the ceiling above as if he is picking flowers. One of those glasses, I assume, is for me, but I leave it lying there, feeling a little pang of guilt. I hope the wine won’t be wasted.
They take the drinks outside. It is a beautiful day in Belfast. It has not rained in four days now, although you can tell the rain is waiting to break. But for now the roads are littered with yellow leaves, who drift down on the tail of the wind and try to nestle in your coat, and although the light is not as soft and yellow as it is at home, this is what Belfast has to offer, and I will accept it. The weather today is especially fine; I am sweltering in my coat, and wish I had just left it at home.
Hannah and Victoria sip their wine, and I work up the courage to ask my professor for his autograph. I do not think there is a way to do this gracefully; but I manage to find that courage somewhere inside of me, and I approach his table. He checks the spelling of my name and signs the book, but he writes my classroom nickname, won because I am the second of the Rebekahs in my class. It sounds false on his tongue, and on everyone’s but my sister’s. Bekah. Half a shekel. Good to have you as a student, he writes, and he dates it, signs his name, and adds the location: Belfast.
A table has opened up nearby, and we sit there. Victoria is giving us a spirited rendition of the Resident Evil series. I am thumbing my way through the book. It begins in first person, and ends in third—I notice, only because Ciaran brought it up in class today. It starts with a man and a lost notebook, and the day he was writing in it; and the first concrete location is Muriel’s bar. That’s the mark of a novel, my literature professors would say; real, concrete places. Never underestimate the author’s use of real places. Take a look at Moll Flanders, they say, as I stifle yawns; look at her in this passage, circling Newgate. This is her descent into hell.
I push away the voices of my inner critics, and flip to the last page. I always read the first and last lines before anything else. The last line rarely contains any spoilers, and I can tell by how it sounds what type of book this will be. The last words in this book weigh heavy, but at the same time I could laugh: The words kept on, appearing from nowhere. This, too, is something Ciaran has been speaking of for two weeks now.
“Hey,” a boy—a man—suddenly says. It is addressed to me; his black eyes have not met either Hannah’s or Victoria’s. This is unusual on about a thousand different levels, and shocks me, so all I can manage in reply is a long, drawn-out, “Heeeeyyyy,” back. Finally it clicks: this is Aleksander from Creative Writing class. He has come to Professor Carson’s book launch, too.
Aleks is tall and dark, with short black hair and glasses remarkably like Professor Carson’s. His trousers are black, and his sweater is black, with buttons on the left shoulder. The effect is remarkably Russian, for a German exchange student.
“When did you get here?” he asks. Now that I know him, I am relaxed, and his accent falls cleanly on my ears. When a German speaks English, it is the closest thing to an unbothered, Midwestern accent in the world. It is not hard to listen, or understand, as it sometimes is with the Irish, and I do not need to concentrate to understand his words.
“’Bout ten minutes ago,” I say.
“And you’ve already had a glass of wine?”
He is looking down at the table, where an empty wineglass is sitting before me. Whoever vacated the table left it, and I didn’t bother my head about it—because it makes it seem that I fit in. Perhaps it worked a bit too well. I fumble, and forget how to speak, and I really wish I was a couple of miles away. “It’s more of a decoy,” I manage.
I have no idea how he takes this, but he smiles politely, and goes inside to get his own drink, before coming out to roll a cigarette. I watch closely, half-listening to Victoria. I have never seen anyone roll a cigarette. The bag he takes the tobacco from reads SMOKING KILLS in great white letters, but he takes a small amount of the brown strands and puts them in clean white paper. He starts to smoke, and we fall into conversation about Ciaran’s book. I show it to him, and watch as a glowing ember from his cigarette flakes down by Hannah’s wineglass. I imagine my book old, and yellowed, smelling of red wine and rolled cigarettes, which somehow is a cleaner, softer scent than the pre-rolled ones of America. I wonder if they are any healthier.
Soon we are all inside of the cramped little pub. Ciaran is on the stairs, next to his publisher, a woman in a beautiful blue dress with polka dots on it, whose face is obscured from view. She introduces him, and Ciaran introduces himself as no one else can: by playing on his tinwhistle. We listen to him recite two translated poems thereafter, all about the exchange of place, of men’s eyes looking at you from the horse, and the horse’s eyes looking at you from the man. Finally he reads some of his own book, just a paragraph or two, and finishes with another tune. Behind me are a group of all, laughing men, friends of my professor; they laugh and cheer at everything he says. My own little group of students laugh, too. It is impossible not to find his eccentricities endearing.
“It’s also Ciaran’s birthday,” the publisher announces, “Will you join me all in singing the traditional song?” And the pub is suddenly roused and singing. Someone brings out a cake, and Ciaran blows out the candles, embarrassed. “You can have it,” he says, ducking back outside, where it is safe.
We stay for a slice of cake, and then go to Crescent Church for iCafe. It is quiz night, and we have been promised pizza. “I feel so literary,” Victoria says, smiling, and Hannah agrees.
For the quiz, we divide into groups. There are two Irish with us, and then Mel, Intan, Daniel and James. We name ourselves 50 Shades of Brown; I’m not exactly sure why, but I assume it is because we are so many different countries and skin colours. They keep us dancing to Gangam Style, and test our knowledge; Daniel and James, from Africa, know most of the answers. For one of the challenges, we must construct an animal out of a latex glove, two balloons, tape, and a newspaper, and we create a peacow named Ralph, an imaginary creature that fiercely annoyed the dreadlocked man behind us.
“It’s neither dolphin nor camel!” he says, but he laughs in spite of himself.
Somehow we win, and our prize is a large tub of chocolate. We divvy it up between ourselves, and I take the tub home. Mel and I sing “We Are the Champions,” through the streets of Belfast, and anyone watching would think we were completely plastered. But tonight I do not care. I am too happy to care.

Sunday, October 7, 2012

In and Out of Time



I didn’t want to wake up.
“You have to,” the angel on my shoulder told me. “You’re meeting Victoria and Hannah. You planned this. Remember?”
I remembered, but that didn’t mean I was looking forward to it. Victoria wanted to go out this weekend, which in itself is not a bad thing—but she wanted to go to the Ulster Folk Museum, which was a great distance away. We would have to take a bus (3 pounds!) and then pay for entrance (8 pounds!). Besides, I still had a cold to nurse, and I had a hacking cough that was worrying me.
Pulling out my phone, I texted Hannah and told her I was rethinking today’s plans. It would be nice, I thought, to sit at home for a day, and do all of my assigned reading. There were a hundred and sixty pages left of Moll Flanders to read, and three chapters in Anthropology, and I had laundry to do, which was best done early, when no one was awake.
A few cagey text messages later, I went out into the hallway with a book and prepared to wait until Hannah came out. She appeared momentarily, ready for the day, her brown curls cascading over her black coat. “You don’t look sick,” she said, narrowing her eyes at me. “Come on! Get up! Get your coat!”
“But Han-nah.”
“Go on! Get ready!”
I wrinkled my nose at her, but obeyed. Two angels were wrestling in my head, pointing out all of my ills and woes and homework, and the other saying, Hannah and Victoria are the two closest friends you have in Belfast, are you really going to abandon them?
Shut up, I told myself. I did not listen.
We met Victoria in front of the Treehouse, the centre of all Elms Village activities, and then proceeded to walk an hour to the River Lagan.
Earlier I wrote about being left in the TitanicQuarter, which is just across the River Lagan. That I walked that far was incredible; what was even more amazing was I did not feel tired for the long walk. We made it to the Laganside Buscentre in good time, and soon we were barrelling our way through Holywood, towards the Ulster Folk Museum. About a half hour later, we were standing on the side of a highway, walking towards the museum.
Many of you are familiar with Greenfield Village, and that is kind of what the Ulster Folk Museum is, although it’s smaller and less organised. We had arrived early as well, and there were few people there; besides the friendly man who sold us our ticket and penalized us for every Americanism we used, there were only scores of children running around and shrieking. Tentatively, we explored the buildings in the “town,” and stopped for a luncheon of Irish Stew and Australian Root Beer. Afterwards, we slowly made our way out to the farmlands, where we visited the forge and helped fan the fire, and petted a donkey, its fur warm from the sun. The chickens clucked, pleased to make our acquaintance, and the sheep eyed us carelessly from afar—although one ram did nuzzle Victoria’s fingers furiously, almost getting its horns caught in the fence.
It was all strangely empty and timeless. I felt as if I was slipping through time, and had not quite come out at the other end, so that I was moving around a frozen landscape and would soon come across a woman picking apples, trapped in the act, or a lone farmer out in the fields, hand still shielding his eyes from the sun. As we slipped into a small forest and crossed a bridge over a stagnant stream, the feeling increased, although instead of humans, I imagined fairies sitting at the bottom of a hawthorn tree, smiling viciously at us.
At the end of the little grove of trees was a red mansion, and as we looked on, I suddenly felt as if I was living in Jane Austen’s world, and all of a sudden the entire country would come sprawling outside of its doors, all clucking and gossiping about the ball at Netherfield, and I would soon seen Elizabeth and Jane Bennet, and all of their sisters, and perhaps from the terrace I would spy Bingley and Darcy...
We wound back, following a phantom car to all of the different stops, and then eventually found ourselves in the post-office. A man with blue-gray eyes and thin lips greeted us, and let us try our hands at a sort of quill pen; I splattered the page the way a primary student might, while Hannah did her best to imitate the great calligraphists of the past, and Victora tried to make the ink turn a dark gray. The man told us how important the Folk Museum was, because they often got tours of students in who would ask, “Is that a real fire?” or did not know where eggs came from. “It’s hard for me to understand,” he said, “because I’m connected to the old times; I remember. But these young folk, it’s so easy to get impatient with them, because they haven’t had the experiences I’ve had. I have to remind myself of that.”
I could not imagine growing up not knowing where eggs came from, or the difference between a real and fake fire; these are things I feel as if I’ve always known—but, then, I grew up surrounded by a farm, and fed with eggs from Aunt Connie’s chickens. But I could imagine this as a concern, because I know it is a concern in America, too; that the young are forgetting the past. I’m certain I seem ignorant to many of the older people I know.
We finished up the day in a sweet shop, buying candies at 60p a bag. Victoria went for the mints, and Hannah the bonbons, while I got jazzies; we all ended up buying some vanilla fudge, which mixed pleasantly with the Root Beer we had had for lunch, with its strong aftertaste of liquorice and vanilla together. The man there teased us as well. He was wearing a gray pinstripe suit, and had a thick silver ring on his left hand. I wondered if he was married; he seemed so young. So many of the Irish do.  He asked us where we were from, and offered us free bonbons and a sweet so sour, there was a warning label on the side of the can, claiming that if one ate too many of them, their mouths would bleed. Victoria popped one in her mouth and held it there for thirty seconds, proving her a brave soul.
We left then, to catch the bus, and skidded down a slippery stairwell, grown out of a growth of bushes. The stone stairs had been coated with moss and rainwater, and the branches of the bushes were trying desperately to reclaim their old territory. We slipped our way to the bottom, and there waited for the pink Ulsterbus that would come and pick us up.
It was soon there, and we were speeding again down the highway to Holywood. And there I saw a meatwagon, with its boxy shape, and two police officers in florescent yellow. They looked solemn and grave, as the police always do when by the meatwagons. Shortly thereafter I saw three officers by another meatwagon, these ones in black, radioing in.
That was when I noticed the bus had slowed down.
What has happened? I wondered, for police do not congregate like this when there is nothing going on. I leaned back in my seat and started to imagine crimes Agatha Christie would be proud of, ones that Hercules Poirot would have loved to solve. Two more yellow police officers stood by in the road as our bus scraped by, and suddenly I heard...music.
There was a parade, coming towards us, their pale faces just as solemn as the policemen’s. In the front was a boy with a flag reading PROTESTANT BOY’S CLUB, and all of the boys who followed were wearing the same maroon colour, their faces grim and set as they played their flutes and drums. This was a parade, then. My first parade.
I was not afraid. The only danger in parades comes when they are large parades, numbering more than the twenty-odd numbers there beside our bus, and when the parades leave their territory to enter another. I knew we were safe in Protestant territory, where no one would feel slighted by their own marching down their streets.
The bus continued to crawl by, and soon we realised that there was another parade, this one of people in blue, ahead of us. We went our slow way until at last the blue parade turned down a side-street, and I listened to the sound they made until we were out of sound and sight. 
"I'm glad you made me come," I said. 
Victoria and Hannah looked pleased. 

As soon as I was home, I made my weary way to the laundry room. It was busy and full at eight in the evening, but I managed to find a washer and put my things inside. I settled in on one of the seats and buried my nose in Jamaica Inn, revelling in the betrayal of Francis Darvey, and listening with delight to what Mary shunned, of the gods of old, and the Celts who wandered the moors of England, the craggy tors and mists that lifted for no man. And, too, I mourned for Mary, who went with Jem Merlyn, starting the cycle of violence and crime anew, even though the betrayer lay dead by the seaside.
I was roused from my book by several people, asking for help: for change, for soap. One Asian girl had no idea how to wash her clothes at all; she did not know Irish money, or that you need soap to wash clothes. I gave her some of mine and showed her the coins to use, and told her how to wash and dry her clothes. I was surprised that her mum hadn’t thought to explain how to wash her clothes before she left home; my mum had given me a crash course before I left for Madonna. But I liked helping her. It makes me more confident in my own skills, especially because as I was helping her pick out the change she needed, I remembered the man at the sweets shop asking me if I’d gotten the change down yet and I’d said, “No, not at all,” and yet...perhaps I have a better grasp on it than I thought.

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Shopping Malls and Second-hand Bookstores



Yesterday Hannah, Victoria and I went to Victoria Square to visit the closest thing Belfast has to a mall. The Square was named for Queen Victoria, as is almost everything else in Belfast, for it was under her reign that Belfast had its golden age. Just a few minutes’ walk from the Square is the leaning Prince Albert Clocktower, also a tribute to the Queen and her loyal husband. We were looking mostly for clothes, and I was able to see the kind of clothes people buy here—and see just how much the pound is really worth. Some of the more posh stores we visited had price tags in euros and dollars, and clothing that was 40 or 50 pounds translated to over a hundred dollars U.S. It’s not really a surprise that none of us bought anything, although we did have fun trying clothes on.
The dresses here are cut low in the front, coming to about our knees, whilst in the back the dresses float on to the ankles. I personally find this fashion comfortable, albeit a little strange when tried on. There are more sweaters here than in the States, most of them knitted, and some of them with leather bands by the elbow, so that they don’t wear out too soon, I think. All of the fabrics were soft, and comfortable; most of the shirts had birds or skulls on them. However, the style that surprised me most were the trousers—there aren’t as may jeans here as there are Stateside; there are tight-fitting trousers of different colours, burgundy, dark blue, green, gray. All of the trousers, jeans included, are actually tight-fitting.
“It’s like they never heard of bell-bottoms!” Hannah said with frustration as we looked at a store display of boot-cut jeans.
Everything was very creative and fashionable; everyone here in Ireland, actually, has more style than I dreamt possible. I can’t possibly hope to keep up—especially with the prices!
After we had visited enough clothing stores, we went to Build-a-Bear, where Victoria and I rejoiced in our inner childishness and Hannah gazed on with a long-suffering expression, and then we went to Friday’s for dinner.
While I didn’t buy anything yesterday, I have been buying a few books. I finally got my copy of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, at the very dear price of 3.75. 

Why did I spend so much, you ask?
I spent that much for the inscription. 

For those of you who can’t read it, it is a letter dated 1 December, 2001.

Rebecca (it reads),
I hope you enjoy this magical book. It’s almost as magical as the last 12 months have been! (But not quite). I love you very much and I’m honoured to be entering into our second year together. If it’s half as good as 2000-01 it will be magic too!
Love for ever and ever,
Mark

My first immediate response was That is my name, and that is Marky’s name, and my second was sorrow. Why was this book in a second-hand bookstore? Had they broken up? It was so many years ago, 2000; twelve years, in fact. And now this book was in my hands.
But my third reaction was perhaps the most valid; and it was laughter. That was my name, and that was Marky’s name, and I felt as if he had guided me to this book, and it was his way of saying, I am here, watching over you, and I love you.
So I bought the book, and it rests on my bookshelf, and when I look at it I remember that I am loved, too; and that I am loved by the angels.