Friday, November 30, 2012

A Week in the Life Of



An average week in the life of Rebekah goes like this:

Monday
The moment I crack open my eyes, I reach out and fumble for my pink mobile, which I keep on the dresser beside me. If I’m really lucky, the glowing numbers on the screen say 7.00 or 7.30, which means I can roll over and go back to sleep. If I’m unlucky, the numbers glow 8.30 or 8.40—which means I might as well get up and start the day.
My first class of the morning is anthropology, and I’m almost always fifteen or twenty minutes early. This is fine with me; I like to sit and read a bit before class. Some weeks I read socialist propaganda, which I have to draw on more and more as the semester wears on; sometimes I feel as if my anthropology classes are a war of political agendas. Other weeks I read reports on the Bluestockings, or skim over that week’s reading on Barcelona fertility clinics or illegitimate children. At about five minutes to nine, my friend Katie appears, and we share reports about our weekends, about the homework for this class, plans for the afternoon.
At promptly nine, the doors to the lecture hall open, and a flood of maths students pile out. I press myself against the wall and wait until the coast is clear. Once there are no more people inside, Katie and I tromp down to our preferred seats, about five rows from the front. I like this row because I’m close enough to hear the professor, but far enough back that I don’t break my neck trying to read the powerpoints. I am also directly out of the line of fire, which all students in their right minds try to avoid. Still, as the semester draws to a close, I find I’m more comfortable shouting out answers—few people actually raise their hands in this setting.
Anthropology lately has been a summarization of Bolivian tin miners, but in the weeks before we skipped around and talked about illegitimate children, egg donation, and feminism. Before that we focused on African tribes and a terrible book that nobody understood a word of. The overarching theme of the class is kinship, and frequently we related kinship back to marriage, class, and the economy. The economy is what starts our newest professor, Gordon Ramsay, on his socialistic bends.
After class is done, Katie and I pack up and have lunch together. Earlier in the semester, when the weather was still warm, we sat outside on the benches. One week we went to Starbucks; usually we just go to the Student Union and talk, now that the weather has gotten colder. She asks me about my essays, which are always on wild and rather inappropriate topics (I don’t know any more if I choose them or if they choose me), and then I try and encourage her to talk about her archaeology classes. Katie is studying at Queen’s for three years—that’s the plan, anyway—and she wants to be an archaeologist. She’s hoping to work in Egypt one day. Since this is the field I would want to work in were I not a writing nut, I never get tired of listening to her talk about her class field trips to museums and field sites. This Monday she started talking about the differences in accidental mummies and purposeful mummies, and how the Egyptians, Peruvians, and Chinese got the mummies they have.
After lunch, I hang out under an arch in the Lanyon Building, waiting for Hannah. At one we have our 18th Century Literature lecture in a classroom that reminds us of something out of Dead Poet’s Society. When Hannah appears we share details about the day. Sometimes Tuesday comes and talks to us, sharing anecdotes about the Northern Irish life or her week or the assigned reading. At one we climb up the stairs as the maths students are being let out, and sit down three rows from the front. It’s more important to sit close to the lecturers in this class as the microphone is rubbish, and often gives out. Sometimes the lectures are good. Sometimes they are bad. By three, when we are released, I feel like a soda pop bottle that’s been shaken; I’m about to explode.
After classes are over, the day can branch into different places. Hannah and I usually stop at the Spar to buy groceries; sometimes we do our laundry. When there is no laundry, we return to our rooms to muck about on the internet and pretend to do homework. Dinner is usually an event, as all of the Northern Irish students have returned from the weekend and are talkative and energetic.

TUESDAY

Tuesdays are brilliant days because I get to sleep in. I wake up and read over my Creative Writing homework one more time (it is the only class I regularly and routinely do my homework and assigned reading for) and then head out to meet Hannah at noon for lunch on Stranmilis Road. A Presbyterian church offers us a free lunch, but it comes at a high cost: there is no room to sit, and once you have eaten you are shuffled out of the way so others can eat. There is no place for friendships or discussion. I eat my pitiful meal of half a sausage roll, all that I am allotted, and sip at my tea, and in under half an hour we are released back onto the Belfast streets.
Hannah has a morning class, but at noon she is free. I have class at three, and I am loath to walk back to Elms only to pack up and walk back at 2.30. In the first weeks of the semester I wandered through every secondhand book shop on Botanic Avenue, but now that the semester is nearing its end, and I had problems with money and the bank, I tend to hole up in a corner in the library and write, or read. At 2.30 I am sick to death of the library and walk over to my Creative Writing class, where I am a half hour early. I take a seat on the stairs and continue to read or write; sometimes I stare at the ceiling and the door and think about home, about the future, about parallel universes.
Aaron is the first person to show up for Creative Writing besides me, and I try and engage him in conversation until the others arrive. Aaron is like a wee Oscar Wilde; his hair flows the same way, and he is a poet—or he could be, one day. I like everyone in my Creative Writing class, from kind India, talkative and grown-up Ann-Marie, German Aleks, who makes his own cigarettes, shy and sweet Rebecca, fiery Georgia, and vivacious and amazingly talented Shannon.
When everyone is assembled we file into the little box of a classroom and are held at the mercy of Ciaran Carson for two hours, who sometimes thinks out loud, and others makes an effort to drill lessons into our heads. I’m always sorry to go, but Ciaran usually gives me a good idea of what to do after his class; there are almost always poetry readings or book launches to attend when class gets out. This week Aleks took initiative and invited us all out to the Parlour, and so five of us went and discussed books and movies for two hours, which was absolutely brilliant.
Tuesday is also iCafe day, and at 7.30 Hannah and I meet Victoria, our American friend, in the Treehouse before walking down to Crescent Church. iCafe is a constant in my life; we have gone to every single once since arriving in Belfast. They were the most helpful people we met the first week, and every week since then they have done their best to make us smile, whilst teaching us lessons about Belfast and God. This week they brought in Scottish dancers, and we all danced together. Hannah and Victoria tried haggis afterwards. I stuck to sugar cookies.

WEDNESDAY

On Wednesday I have no classes, and I have nowhere to be. Some Wednesdays I go on amazing adventures, to the Mountains of Mourne or City Centre or any number of things. Others I stay in my room and work on papers and do homework. Hannah and I usually watch a movie on our laptops, or Victoria invites us out to do something.

THURSDAY

On Thursday again I have no classes, but Hannah gets out of class at eleven, and I always go and meet her in front of the McClay library. Usually we go inside and read, or I run through the shelves searching for a tome on sensibility or gothic literature or the Bluestockings. At noon we go to Fisherwick and have the best lunch of the week, which is a sausage, an apple, a cup of tea, a cup of water, a chocolate-caramel sweet, and, for Hannah, soup. Fisherwick is a larger church than the one on Stranmilis, and Hannah and I can take our time. Some weeks we sit with the British Rebekah; one week we sat with Tom, and others we sit with an Australian boy. Several Americans also come and check up on us. Lately they’ve been asking how our Thanksgiving went.
After lunch I usually walk Hannah to class. Some weeks Victoria and I catch Hannah when she gets out at three, and we walk to City Centre, but other weeks I stay in my room and fiddle around on the internet and do homework and read. By eight, the music has started upstairs. Party night has begun in Belfast. It usually doesn’t stop until three.

FRIDAY
Friday is probably the day I like most, which is absolutely ridiculous, because it is the day where the most happens. Again I wake up and reach out for my pink phone and then get up, but already I find an impediment to my daily routine: It is cleaning day, and I have to skirt cleaning ladies as I try to use the single bathroom, the single shower, and the kitchenette. After much debate with myself, I have given up on Friday breakfasts, if only to spare the cleaning ladies, but I still must fight for the shower and bathroom. Once I’m clean, I eat bread in my room and wait until 10.30 to walk to class.
I am again fifteen minutes early to Anthropology, and again sit in the stairwell and listen to the other people in my class talk. Sometimes they talk about our professors. Today they talked about my tutor, Bree, and how they do not like her. From what I can gather as an anthropologist—for I am already trying to get into the mindset of my class—the teaching methods of Irish and non-Irish tutors differ dramatically, and because Bree teaches like an American (the reason I like her), the Northern Irish students find her hard to work with.
Gordon Ramsay pops around, early on Friday, and waits for the mad rush of students to get out of class. Katie appears, and we talk about what’s been going on with us this week. I remind her about movie night, and she nods. At eleven the doors open and the class piles out. I say hello to one of the girls I know, Sophie, who is in that class, and then Katie and I file inside and sit in our usual seat. Gordon turns on blaring music—he is an ethnomusicologist, which means he studies the anthropological origins, effects, and designs of music—and shouts, “Handouts, get yer handouts!” in his ridiculous blend of English, American, and Australian.
After class on Friday, I dash off to my tutorial in House 13. Bad luck, I always say to myself cheerfully as I push open the pink door. There is usually a line up in front of our class; the room is, more often than not, locked. Bree runs to get the key, and then we file into the cold classroom. Tucked into the right corner is a bunch of what might be stage props, or ethnomusicology instruments. Bree smiles at us and gets us started on our presentations.
Most weeks presentations are two students standing in front of the class and reading off of a sheet or two of paper. Everything is handwritten; these are not formal essays. They are instead the line by line interpretations of the article we read for homework, cut off without a conclusion, and left without original thought. Bree struggles to make the presenters conclude their presentations and put in their personal opinions, and so when my turn comes to bat, I decide to show my classmates how Americans do presentations.
Last week I gave my presentation on a Barcelona clinic that specialises in egg donations. Our article talked about twenty-five women donating eggs, and why they were doing it. My job was to both analyze, project, and put in my own opinions about egg donations. So when the day came, I put up a powerpoint, colourful and vivid, and without the use of notes, started off by talking about Queen’s University Belfast, which has just lately announced it has found a way to negate male infertility. From that starting point, I elaborated on the article, and then moved into ethical boundaries. Egg donation is actually illegal in many European countries, whilst sperm donation is legal. Is this because sperm donations is easier, bringing to mind images of men alone in a room with a cup and a magazine, while egg donation involves anesthetics and minor surgery, or is this a question of ethics?
As per always, whenever I get an explosive, embarrassing, taboo subject, I took things too far, and ended up polling my entire flat, asking if they would consider donating their eggs. In the end, only one person said that they would consider donating their eggs. What was the reason? I asked my class. First, there was possession—they’re MY eggs, you can’t have them—but the second was religion.
This, of course, got us onto a discussion of orthodox Judaism compared to Catholicism and In Vitro Fertilisation, but I consider this a job well done. Bree was ecstatic, and the Northern Irish students rather unimpressed. We finished the class up, as we always do, relating everything back to the States, which, while great for me, probably annoys everyone else to distraction.
At 1.05, I am late to my next class, and run down the street to House 2. House 2 is not my final destination, however; I spend three minutes winding around a maze until I come out at the end at the Seamus Heany Centre. Luckily for me, everyone else, including our tutor, has class before this, and so I am usually just on time or about a hair late. Originally, our tutor for 18th Century Literature was a Dutch girl named Rebecka, who I associated with Regina George, but now we have a British boy with nice eyes called Joe Lines, who basically lets us do whatever the heck we want. His voice never gets very loud, and he never judges us the way Rebecka did. This is both nice and boring, and now we all sit and stare at him when he says things. This is partially because A) Nobody knows what he wants from us, and B) I spend too much time enjoying his accent to really bother to listen to him. Half of the class has started playing truant, and so I have taken over as his right-hand woman; Richard (AKA Catboy) is his right-hand man. I make sure everyone stays on track, and Richard answers when the rest of us look as if we would rather be anywhere in the world but there. Catboy is basically invaluable to the class. I don’t know if our tutorial would survive without him.
At 2.05 we are released back into the world. I am full of a pervading sense of peace. All is right with the world. I have survived another week in a Northern Irish university, and I am well pleased with how I am doing. I walk back to Elms, grab a snack, and sometimes go into the kitchen to see Chelsea and Hannah. Then it is homework until dinner at six; at 7.30, we go to the Treehouse and we have movie night with some of the most amazing people you will ever meet: Jennifer, Rebekah, and Sophie. We watch a movie, share snacks, and then talk until late. When I go to sleep, I am usually happier than I have been all week—not to say that I am unhappy during the week, but that I am almost angelically peaceful.

SATURDAY

What? Wait. No. You canNOT be serious. How much homework do I have left? But how much homework have I done already? None of it? Are you kidding me? Aggh!
On the days that homework does not prevail and take over my soul, I go on day trips to Zoos, to Dublin, to City Centre…but always homework. Because apparently I was on the internet all week instead of doing something productive.
Where is everyone?
Oh. Right. They’re at home.
Where the heck is the couch? It’s been missing since Thurs—ohh…

SUNDAY

Mass is at 10.30 sharp. Hannah and I are usually there twenty to thirty minutes early. I sit and pray, and then try and pay attention to the priests, who are dry as dust. After mass, I have the happiness of knowing we are going to Saint George’s Market with Victoria.
And then, of course, more homework—or, if I’m lucky, a movie night.

Saturday, November 24, 2012

I'm Coming Back



When I woke up this morning, I had no idea that in two hours I would be scrambling up a muddy mountain and dodging cyclists. Nothing went as planned today, but unexpected as it was, today was definitely the second best day I have had in Belfast, and a brilliant birthday weekend.
Today we were supposed to go down to Dublin for some Christmas shopping with the Weekenders Club, which is the only club I go to weekly. I attend the Weekenders Club on an almost religious basis, because it means that every Friday night I can wind down watching a brilliant movie with my two American friends here, Hannah and Victoria, and three amazing British girls, Jennifer, Sophie, and Rebekah. Sophie and I just celebrated our 20th birthdays on November 22, and Rebekah and I—if you haven’t already guessed—share the same name. I don’t get to see them often enough, because with Queen’s being as big as it is, sometimes I only see the people I like most once a week. This is an absolute travesty, and so when I heard we were all going to Dublin today, I was bloody excited. I got up at the unheard of hour of eight in the morning (don’t judge me, I’m a uni student), dressed in my favourite top, scarf, and the necklace Hannah gave me for my birthday, and went off to meet Hannah, Sophie, and Rebekah to pack Oreo cupcakes. In the interests of money—as in, we all have pounds, but not euros—we had decided to pack a lunch and charge all of our presents to our credit cards, and therefore, we would have a picnic lunch.
We arrived in the Treehouse right on time. Victoria was already there, and we chatted for a bit, worrying about where Jennifer was. Jennifer is the only one of us who does not live in Elms, but by the Chaplaincies across the street from the Lanyon Building, and so instead of walking thirty seconds to the Treehouse, she had to walk ten minutes. But she made it, albeit a little bit late, but this was not unduly concerning, because the rest of the Treehouse was just lounging. Waiting. Nicola, the RA in charge of this operation, kept popping in and out and making sure we were all for Dublin, and then popping off again. The RAs are brilliant at this. So the six of us gossiped in the corner, and I kept sneaking peeks at the British boy from our last major outing, to the Zoo.
After the time for our departure had come and gone, Nicola finally gathered us all around and said, “I’m very sorry, but today’s trip has been cancelled, because I can’t find a bus driver.”
The RAs here seem to have a huge problem with this. You would think that when fifty people sign up for a bus trip to Dublin you would find a bus driver to get them there in one piece. Apparently not.
“But we will reschedule. How about next Saturday?”
There were calls of dissent. Apparently next Saturday was full.
“Then the Saturday after next?” cries of assent. “All right. It’s settled. But I will personally drive any of you who want to do something today anywhere in Belfast—for free. So have a think. Maybe the Continental Market? Saint George’s? Have a natter.”
We six of us sat down, slightly surprised, and thought. I didn’t want to go to City Centre, as I’ve been to the Continental Market twice now, and because my cheque still has not cleared. (The bank said it would come in on Friday. The bank lied. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOUR BANK MERGES WITH A SWEEDISH BANK, AMERICA.) The others were vaguely in agreement about this.
“Well, we don’t want to do nothing,” everyone said.
“I walked all the way here,” Jennifer said.
“Titanic Museum?” someone said.
“We’ve already been,” Hannah and I said.
“I’m going with a friend next week,” Rebekah said.
“I’m going with my parents,” Victoria said.
We sat there, thinking. And then I had an idea.
I do not get ideas often—not social ideas, anyway—but when I do get an idea, I will run with it to the ends of the Earth and back (which is why I’m in Northern Ireland right now). And when I have an idea…it tends to be rather unconventional.
Lately I have been thinking that I have three weeks left of my stay here in Belfast, and so I think back on when I first arrived, and the things that stood out to me the most. I’m happy to say I’ve done almost everything I’ve wanted to do, except visit Downpatrick and Cork, and walk across the obligatory Rope Bridge of Northern Ireland. But there was one thing I hadn’t done yet, something that I had wanted to do since I had first arrived in Northern Ireland and travelled across the countryside in a bus, tired and sore and amazed: I wanted to climb Cave Hill, the mountain that I have taken so many pictures of with my camera, the one I threatened to climb when I was at the Zoo, the one I have thought about again and again in my thoughts.
So I said, “What about Belfast Castle?”
Lo and behold, I’d had a good idea, because everyone agreed with me—and two others, Maltese boys named Manuel and Mark, thought it was such a good idea they went with us.

Nicola was a good tour guide, because she stopped and explained what was going on honestly. Every single time we reached an interface she would point it out. An interface here is where Catholic territory faces Protestant territory, and this is where most of the skirmishes occur. Catholic territory had spray-painted FREE SO-AND-SO signs put up in strange places, and Nicola explained that we were in North Belfast, where the treaty lines are uneven. Education is poor in North Belfast. Girls tend to get pregnant and drop out early. International students are fine, but GB students would do well to stay away. I suddenly had the odd sensation of feeling rather safe and rather uncomfortable—I was a Catholic, but I was American, which negated my religion, and I was travelling with three British girls, whom I did not want to be in any danger because I’d had the fool idea to travel through. Jennifer distracted me though by saying, “My parents got married here, but I can’t find the church,” and we started trying to find it.
Anyway, we were soon dropped off at Belfast Castle, and started taking pictures. This is probably the best time to describe the layout of Belfast Castle for you.
One of the first things you will see upon arriving in Belfast is the Zoo, and Cave Hill, and then the harbour. The Zoo is built beneath Cave Hill, and Belfast Castle is sort of built a little higher than the Zoo, but still on sea level. What I am trying to say here is that the harbour is visible from certain parts of the Castle, which is directly underneath Cave Hill, which is near to the Zoo. I suppose that’s all rather confusing, but it must be explained. 
 At the Castle, we dove into the gardens, which had a feline theme. There were nine cats hidden in the garden, and we ran around looking for them all. Once we had found them we went inside of the Castle and climbed up a spiral staircase to look through three rooms open to the public. We had good craic there, using a spy camera to watch people wandering through the gardens, and we picked up a map. The map told us that there was a playground, which as mature 20 and 21 year olds sounded like fun, and also a maze, which we wanted to visit too. So we went down to the playground, and I was amazed to see that the entire thing was gated, the top bits covered with barbed wire, and that the inside was large, and decorated like a miniature castle.
“Why is there barbed wire?” One of us—probably me—asked.
Manuel laughed. “So the kids can get used to their future!”
I figure, if I’m going to be a jailbird I might as well associate good memories with barbed wire, and followed an energetic Jennifer to the doors of the playground, only to learn that you have to be 14 or younger to play there, and besides the insurmountable age difference, you had to cough up £2.50 to be allowed inside.
Thus we started following Rebekah, who was looking at the map, to the maze. The woman at the playground had no idea where it was at, but the map gave a pretty clear picture. We went through some very scenic hiking trails by a little stream, and were almost there when a man in a yellow fluorescent jacket stopped us because we were on a bike trail, and there was to be a mountain biking event on that day, which meant if we proceeded any further we might get run over by a bike and die.
The man explained to Rebekah how to turn around and try a different trail, whilst the rest of us—Jennifer and myself, at any rate—seriously considered leaping a fallen tree to get to where we wanted to go. Eventually the reason of Rebekah and Hannah turned us around, and quite by accident we found the maze.
Which stunk.
For one thing, the maze was built so that the walls were easily jumped, and we could see where we were going; and if you simply follow the maze it will lead you out. You make no choices. There is no game of wits with the creator of the game, no skill involved. It was a meditational maze, Jennifer said, who is familiar with mazes of all sorts and told me about some of them as we walked. For a maze like this, you simply meditate, and by following the path, it will lead you to the center, and then out. It was a strange experience, and we felt rather flat afterward; we had been expecting something, as Mark said, out of “Alice in Wonderland.”
At this point, Jennifer wanted to go to the Zoo and see the Malaysian Tapirs (what is with the British and the Tapir?) but I wanted to climb Cave Hill, and so did most of the others. We kept trying to find trails up the mountain, but there was invariably a man in a fluorescent jacket saying, This path is reserved for the cyclists. Please try another path.
Eventually we did find a path, and it was rather muddy. We had barely gone five minutes when we had to do a vote, do we go to the Zoo, or do we continue on, and the vote was in my favour, so we continued to climb.
Just after the vote, we had to climb up a steep, narrow, muddy pathway that bikers kept flying down. Trees grew closer on either side. This was rather dangerous, and if we weren’t careful we would slip and fall. In the end Rebekah and Sophie wanted us to go one by one, so that it would be both safer and easier on the narrow path, and I shouted back, “Everyone: Duck formation!”
To my credit, most of them understood and went into single file. Jennifer started to hum what would be the third nursery rhyme I’d learnt that day:
Oh, wasn’t it a bit of luck
That I was born a baby duck
With yellow socks and yellow shoes
So I may go wherever I choose
Quack, quack, quack, quack…
“Rebekah,” Hannah panted from behind, “I am going to kill you.”
We got to the top of that little hill without any damage, although our trainers were rather muddy. Then it was a bit more level, and when the call “Bike!” came, we could dive to the side of the road, onto the grass.
The bikes would roll by, usually in twos or threes, and the forerunner was usually kind enough to say “Cheers!” or “There’s three others behind me,” so we’d be on the lookout. Some said nothing, but splashed mud at us as we went by. One tried to show off by riding along on one wheel for a few seconds.
It was all rather dangerous, and Hannah confessed there was one call of “Bike!” that she didn’t think she’d make. Most of us would trip, some would fall, and there were several complicated maneouvers that we enacted. I started to pretend that we were in World War I.
About halfway up the mountain we were in the clear, and were able to cross a flat patch of grass, and then head up on a wide, flat road made of stones with a lot less mud. This made it easier to talk, and we started talking a bit about Malta, where Manuel and Mark are from, and they asked us questions about America in return. I made a comment about the American education system, a rather negative one, and Mark looked surprised.
“I have never heard an American speak ill of their country,” he said.
Immediately I thought I had made a boo-boo, and Hannah and I were quick to explain. We love America, of course we do, how could we not? But there were problems with America, and we weren’t going to deny them. Was it unusual?
“Unusual,” Mark said, “but honest.”
He seemed rather surprised, and spent a few minutes thinking about this.
While the path was nice and even, and there were no longer any cyclists, tractors kept passing us by with loads of cyclists and their bikes on the back. “The race starts at 2,” some warned us. It was half past. We were almost up the mountain.
The last half of the trek up was the easiest, and within twenty minutes I was standing at the top of Cave Hill with all of the rest, feeling invincible.
The view from the top was incredible. We could see the bay, a Stena Liner ferry safe in the dock, Samson and Goliath, resting in retirement, and the rest of Belfast laid out before us. Jennifer thought she could see Queen’s.
From left to right, Hannah, Sophie, Rebekah, Victoria, Manuel, Mark, and Rebekah
We broke for lunch at the top. A huge group of cyclists were gathered at one end of the cliff, and we stayed by ourselves, eating our packed lunch. Everyone donated something. Rebekah had her cupcakes, Jennifer had made sandwiches, Hannah brought carrots, Sophie hard boiled eggs, and Mark gave us some chocolate things flavoured with orange. As we ate, a little yellow dog came up and ate our eggshells and let us pet him.
I got bored sitting there, and entertained myself by edging down the cliff and then chasing puppies. “Stay where we can see you!” Hannah called.
“Okay, mum!” I yelled back.
After we had eaten and restored our spirits by listening to Queen’s Greatest Hits Album, we went down a steep path I had found going down the mountain that would A) Get us out of the way of the bikers, as it was really steep and really narrow, and too dangerous even for cyclists, and B) it would be faster. The light would start to fade soon, at about four, and it would be best to get down the mountain as soon as we could.
Getting down was just as dangerous as going up. Hannah slipped three times, and Jennifer decided to go on a dangerous slope that she basically had to slide down. At one point I got trapped on gravel that slid under my feet, and I almost fell down an incline. 
Jennifer scrambling down the hill
 And then Sophie and Rebekah, who were travelling in front, called: “There’s a cave on Cave Hill!”
We dashed over, as soon as we could—it is best, as I learned on the Mountains of Mourne, not to run down a mountain, no matter how sorely you are tempted—and stood in front of the cave. It was about eight feet off of the ground, on a little rock face, and Sophie, Rebekah, and I decided we were going to climb it. With the help of people on the ground telling me where footholds were, I scrambled up the rock face. 
Me!

The two Rebekahs in the cave

Climbing was actually the highlight of the cave, for once I had gotten inside I found it was rather small and damp and graffitied. It was probably the size of my living room, and not at all what I had been hoping for, which was an epic spelunking adventure. But I had climbed the side of a rock that was taller than I was, which is something I have always wanted to do. The Mountains of Mourne had made me worry that I was not cut out to climb mountains. Cave Hill changed my mind.
Sophie and Rebekah climbed up as well, and Manuel joined us. Just as we climbed up so had a boy, who was someone who, I thought, climbed rocks fairly regularly. He was joined with the little yellow dog from before—Sparky, I learned his name was. 

On the way down the dad of another group helped us figure out how to get down. This was handy, as not everyone had as long legs as I did—I was the tallest of our group who climbed—and as Sophie had fallen about four feet up the rock face. We didn’t want anyone else to fall. The entire adventure was made more difficult because Sparky kept climbing over me as I was going down. But we all made it down safe, and then got to the bottom relatively easily. 
Jennifer helps me down
By the time we were on level ground we had started to sing The Twelve Days of Christmas in a high soprano. We were singing this just as we passed a group of bikers, and they all of them looked at us as if we were mad.
“How many days of Christmas are there?” Mark complained to Manuel.
“Only twelve,” Manuel said.
But that one song sent us on a Christmas singing spree, and we sang carols through Belfast Castle and for the twenty minutes we waited for Nicola to come and pick us up. We would have sung them in the car as well, if Mark hadn’t turned the music in the car up to drown us out.
“They talked all day,” he complained to Nicola. “They didn’t stop. And then they started to sing—”
We fell silent then, exhausted. I watched the red sky. Red sky in morning, sailors, take warning. Red sky in evening, sailor’s delight. I said this out loud, and Jennifer corrected me: “It’s shepherds.”
“It’s Lord of the Rings,” Victoria said. “The sun is red. Blood has been spilt this night. Legolas said it.”
Then Jennifer tried to get us to sing Christmas carols again, and we tried to sing, “O Little Town of  Bethlehem,” but they sing it differently than we do in America, and that fizzled out quickly.
When we let the boys and Jennifer off at the Chaplaincy, Mark ran off, and Jennifer, tired, left. But Manuel held the door open for a moment and said, “Don’t let anybody stop you from singing. You’ve got me in the Christmas spirit already. I wasn’t before. Don’t let anyone stop you!”
We then went back to Elms, and I went to pick up post, and saw that my lovely Aunt Diane sent me a beautiful black scarf, which is wonderful because I’ve wanted more scarves, and the one she sent me is actually really popular over here right now. I was very surprised, because I hadn’t expected any presents from home at all.
It was dark when I made it back to Holly 4. I had my scarf in my hands. Patrick was waiting for me in the room. I slipped my shoes off before entering, and laughed—because I have done everything I wanted to do in Belfast, and now I am ready to come home gracefully. Besides, as I told Sophie in the car, “Don’t worry [about us leaving]; I’m coming back.”
I am coming back. I’m not quite sure how to explain it, but I love the United Kingdom. I love Northern Ireland, and I love Scotland, and I’m looking forward to exploring more of England than just London Heathrow. I’ve learned so much here, and it’s so hard to believe I go home in three weeks. I am so excited to go home, because I have all of these ideas of what I want to do when I return, ideas that I didn’t have before. I have a clearer idea of who I am and what I want out of life, and I know that I will come back to the U.K. in the near future.
But for now, I am content to be going back to the States.












Songs Jennifer and Sophie taught me today:

The sun has got his hat on
Hip-hip-hip-hooray!
The sun has got his hat on,
He's coming out to play!


Johnny was a Paratrooper in the RAF,
Johnny was a Paratrooper in the RAF,
Johnny was a Paratrooper in the RAF,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

Glory, glory what a terrible way to die
Trapped inside your braces in the middle of the sky
Glory, Glory, what a terrible way to die,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

He landed on the runway like a blob of strawberry jam
He landed on the runway like a blob of strawberry jam
He landed on the runway like a blob of strawberry jam,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

Glory, glory what a terrible way to die
Trapped inside your braces in the middle of the sky
Glory, Glory, what a terrible way to die,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!


They put him in a matchbox and they sent him home to mum
They put him in a matchbox and they sent him home to mum
They put him in a matchbox and they sent him home to mum
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

Glory, glory what a terrible way to die
Trapped inside your braces in the middle of the sky
Glory, Glory, what a terrible way to die,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

She put him on the mantlepiece for everyone to see,
She put him on the mantlepiece for everyone to see,
She put him on the mantlepiece for everyone to see,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

Glory, glory what a terrible way to die
Trapped inside your braces in the middle of the sky
Glory, Glory, what a terrible way to die,
And he ain't gonna jump no more!

And now they all have strawberry jam with their Sunday tea
And now they all have strawberry jam with their Sunday tea
And now they all have strawberry jam with their Sunday tea
And he ain't gonna jump no more!